Portos Mushroom (174m) [P-20]

Overview

Portos Mushroom (174m) [P-20] is a peculiar, unnamed, yet certainly eye-catching Andesite formation found by the roadside of the Portos (”Πορτός”) igneous valley, near the village of Mesotopos (”Μεσότοπος”) on the western end of the island of Lesbos (”Λέσβος”) in the North Aegean. These porphyritic andesites oozed out of the earth some 20 million years ago and covered what once were lush valleys of limestone walls, little of which is visible today. This lesser known region, offers perhaps some of the most unique scenery within the Lesbos Island UNESCO Global Geopark, although overshadowed in popularity by the Petrified Forest nearby.

Lytrou Rachtis (240m) as seen from Portos valley.

The “Eye” on “The Eye” (II, 25m).

This environment of gold and dark brown hues, perfectly accentuated by the sun setting over the Aegean, has offered important contributions to the literary tradition. Most notably, Eresos (”Ερεσός”) is the disputed workplace of Sappho (”Σαπφώ”), the famed pre-Classical lyric poet to whose misunderstood work we owe the word “lesbian”^[1], and who was popularized in modern times by philhellene Lawrence Durrell’s work “Sappho: A play in verse” (1950). The sparse human habitations, views of an endless Aegean, and the overwhelmingly textured reminders of nature’s grandeur drew in other figures, including Albert Camus, who wrote the following about his visit to Sigri (”Σίγρι”).

“ Sigri. Return to Sigri. The two enclosed bays. The barren hills. The smooth water, the evening light. The world and life end here. And begin again. ” — Carnets, Cahier VIII, 22 June 1959

Routes

Having spotted the curious forms of the boulder-like formation, first via Google Street View, and later while driving past one afternoon, I found myself intrigued. Lacking motorized means of transportation — actually, any means — the easy access was tough to beat, and craving some activity after a bouldering accident days prior, braving the afternoon heat seemed effortless.

Plentiful Olives (Olea europaea) grow in orderly rows on every inch of the dry, volcanic, and often steep fields which lead up to Portos valley, at around 150m a.sl., higher up, before the Phrygana bushes turn into dark formations of rock, scattered Valonia Oak (Quercus ithaburensis subsp. macrolepis) seems to thrive. I was feeling rather out of place wearing full cover gear as I walked along the road towards Mesotopos; at least the pace offering a more nuanced view of the surrounding terrain. Entering the valley, Lytrou Rachtis (240m) instantly dominates the view with its dark flanks rising nearly 100m above the road, but all around, craggy forms of Andesite and assorted cooled lavas dot the landscape.

An arete formation near Portos.

The smaller Portos lake with Xylofi (341m) behind.

Continuing on the the more fertile valley center, the slow walking pace made clear the two large lakes which border the road, which were brimming with life. These semi artificial reservoirs allow the cultivation of more demanding crops such as grapes, with which the local Chydiriotiko (”Χυδηριώτικο”) organic variety is produced by Methymnaeos winery. A few more minutes along the road, and these lakes brought me along the foot of Xylofi (341m) [”Ξυλόφι”] where the silence of the Friday afternoon was only disturbed by a dogs bark in the distance.

Looking up at the runnel from the corner.

Looking down from the top of the corner.

While the rock quality left a lot to be desired, being both generally brittle, and foliated vertically, the climbing was rather engaging. The shared section of both routes (see below) — the corner and slab — offer interesting climbing at the grade, and an airy run-out feel towards the arete, as the incline softens. Following the slab to the left and on easier ground leads to “The Eye” (II, 20m), along the climbers left of the arete, while a wide runnel arcing to the right over quite a bit of air makes up “The Runnel” (II+, 35m). Arguably the latter being far more engaging throughout. Both end very close to the summit, where a few steps (T2+) are required to gain it. From the summit perch, views of the sea are notably absent, instead replaced with a unique feeling of enclosure.

View N from the Mushroom, arete is image left.

The descent follows the “Via Normale” (around T3+) through the center of the eroded bowl. From the ground this is accessible by turning left and onto the formation about 30m before reaching the base of the corner. From above, it makes for steep and skittish down hiking, and some care may be needed, especially it is wet.

The return hike was pleasant, and having some extra time I walked to the base of Lytrou Rachtis (240m), where I spotted a Western Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) perched on a slim Oak. Along the road-hike towards Eresos, I also took a moment to admire the small patch of Turkish Pines (Pinus brutia) by the roadside, a unique endemic on the islands of the Northeast Aegean (and Asia Minor).

Route Topo

[A] “The Runnel” (II+, 35m), and [B] “The Eye” (II, 20m).

Named after the characteristic ‘eye’ (hole) on the NW arete, which the route passes next to. A steep slab start through the crux corner with very brittle holds (II+), before a sustained Grade I finish, up a slab and to the left of the arete, traversing into the center of the ‘bowl’.

Named after the obvious runnel forming to the backside (right) of the NW arete, this is a more sustained and serious variation. From the brittle corner, arcs slightly right and follows a steep runnel (II) over some exposure to the base of the arete. Here the grade lessens but and insecure feeling remains while scrambling the final meters to the summit, right below the arete itself.

Logistics

I visited the area as part of a visit to my friend Karolos, who had joined us earlier this year for our Easter in East Pelion trip. There is plentiful accommodation in nearby Eresos and Mesotopos, and although access is best achieved via a motorized vehicle, there are some trail connections towards the Eresos area.

The best period to visit for hiking or scrambling is certainly not peak summer; instead Autumn and Spring should be preferred.

Nearby Peaks

References